Tokyo's Most Affectionate - Chapter 67
Surfing
At 2:00 PM, the two of them returned to the beach once again.
However, this time was different. They were fully equipped, each carrying a surfboard. They left their phones in the locker, carrying only the locker key with them.
“How do I do this…”
With the seawater barely reaching her shins, Ichinose held the rented surfboard, feeling a bit clueless about where to start.
“I’ll demonstrate for you first, and then I’ll teach you slowly.”
Kurosawa, holding a surfboard with a feeling of wielding a weapon, turned around and said.
“Mm-mm.”
Knowing that he would perform first, Ichinose nodded.
As a paradise for surfers, Onjuku Beach had many people enjoying the sport.
Unlike competitions, since it was a beachside activity, it was challenging to gauge the skill levels of participants.
It was similar to knowing how to swim; you wouldn’t care about how well others could swim, as long as they could manage.
Kurosawa, holding the surfboard, entered the sea, heading towards the distant waves.
Continuing forward, the first wave approached, but Kurosawa paid no attention and instead glided over it with the board.
Because this wave was too close to the shore, even attempting to ride it wouldn’t be successful.
“Isn’t it too far…”
Ichinose stood on the shore, watching as Kurosawa swam farther and began to feel a bit worried.
Although she hadn’t surfed before, going so far from the shore seemed dangerous to her.
Just from her perspective, it was at least a hundred meters away, as Kurosawa’s figure became smaller and smaller.
“Phew…”
After swimming quite a distance, Kurosawa rested on the surfboard in the sea.
Nearby, there were others with surfboards, floating on the water, also waiting for the waves.
As a wave approached, Kurosawa didn’t catch it but turned around, facing away from the shore, and looked at the distant sea.
Some people had already caught the wave, starting their surfing.
“This is so much fun!”
Someone cheered. Surfing was indeed an exhilarating experience.
Kurosawa climbed onto the board, stood up, gazing at the distant sea, and then started swimming again.
The entry-level skill was formidable, allowing him to possess skills and experiences that would take an average person decades to acquire at such a young age.
Some people spent their entire lives, and just being able to excel at one thing was already a rare achievement.
Everyone’s energy and time are limited. Whether it’s surfing, singing, or even cooking, devoting decades of effort to one pursuit is a manifestation of true craftsmanship.
Surfing wasn’t just for the wealthy; if you learnt the corresponding skills for surfing at sea, you could enjoy it to the fullest.
Kurosawa went towards the open sea, not knowing how far he was from the shore, only realizing that there were no other surfers around him.
The sea was tumultuous, with waves crashing one after another, exemplifying the saying ‘when one wave subsides, another rises.’
However, Kurosawa didn’t catch any waves, remaining on the board, gazing at the sea, patiently waiting.
“A big wave is coming.”
After a long wait, Kurosawa finally spotted the first wave he was looking for.
Bending down and lying on the board, he began paddling when he saw the approaching wave.
To learn surfing, there’s a necessary prerequisite: knowing how to swim. Without this skill, surfing can be as dangerous as suicide, especially for beginners who might get overturned by the waves at any moment.
As the waves surged with powerful and intimidating force, Kurosawa adjusted the angle of the board, being propelled towards the shore.
The wave was significant, and with each crash, it grew even higher. This was a big wave.
Kurosawa was propelled higher and higher, reaching a height of more than two meters, even three meters.
“Whoa!”
Facing this unprecedented experience, Kurosawa remained calm and felt exhilarated instead.
Though he hadn’t surfed before, thanks to the permanent entry-level skill, his body and mind had learned surfing long ago, experiencing it countless times.
Being pushed towards the shore, when the waves reached a height of over three meters, the leading wave collapsed, and frothy waves began to emerge.
Like fireworks ignited, exploding from the top, the foam spread out, creating a spectacle.
“Whoosh!”
The deafening sound of the waves grew closer.
“Boom!”
The waves surged at his feet, and the foam collapsed nearby, carrying a powerful force. At the critical moment, Kurosawa rose on the wave.
Stepping on the surfboard beneath him, standing two meters above the sea, with the sea breeze stirring, Kurosawa could clearly see the shore. It felt like ascending into the sky.
So awesome.
The surfboard under his feet exerted a continuous force, accelerating the experience. It was as if an electric current had erupted from the soles of his feet, spreading throughout his body, giving him goosebumps.
Gazing at the graceful figure on the shore, Kurosawa no longer hesitated. He adjusted the angle on the surfboard and cut through the waves.
The next moment, he went under the waves.
“Roar!”
The thunderous sound of the waves echoed in his ears as the waves swept over his head, threatening to engulf him at any moment.
However, when the waves were about to crash down, Kurosawa would cut through, making a turn with the board, and once again submerged beneath the waves.
To pursue the most exhilarating experience and the fastest speed in surfing, one must ride against the waves. Only then can the impact be the strongest.
About two hundred meters from the shore, Kurosawa, who had finally started surfing, sped like a rocket.
As the waves continued to advance, at a distance of over a hundred meters, those waiting for the waves saw the towering wave, and the sharp-eyed ones even noticed the figure beneath the foam.
Under the surging waves, a figure seemed to dance on the brink of death, weaving through the waves, moving in tandem with the massive wave.
“Wow!”
Witnessing him riding the waves, swirling through them time and time again, executing proficient and smooth maneuvers with precision, many surfers were instantly impressed by the breathtaking display of skill.
For a moment, these people completely overlooked the hard-won massive wave and were all fixated on that figure.
His skills were too formidable, proficient, and agile, as if he had mastered the vast ocean.
The impact brought by that figure was no less than watching videos of the world’s top surfers on the internet—a scene that ignited a surge of passion.
As the waves continuously surged toward the shore, Kurosawa rode the wave. As he approached, he cut through the waves, waving toward the shore.
“So impressive…” At the coastline, Ichinose covered her mouth with one hand, holding the surfboard with the other, her eyes full of awe as she gazed at the figure waving toward her.
She couldn’t help but admit that she was genuinely captivated and charmed. Her heart was pounding non-stop, as if an alarm bell was ringing in her chest.
In fact, she had anticipated it earlier. When Kurosawa claimed to have entry-level skills, she knew it meant he was quite skilled. However, she didn’t expect him to be this amazing.
Although the vast sea is an expansive and boundless stage, where everyone who enters becomes inconspicuous and just a part of it, at this moment, Kurosawa, riding the waves, became the protagonist of this stage.
That unique feeling of leading the scene was incredibly stunning.
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